The Columbus Dispatch, January 26, 2006
Cajun Flavors: Polaris Grill is featuring its sixth annual Mardi Gras menu, unusual in that it is offered at lunch and dinner.
The mainstay jambalaya is a good buy at $15.95. The super-large bowl contains enough for two people: lots of shrimp, chicken and fish; plenty of tomato chunks and onion; and a few crawfish seasoned with notably hot Cajun spices and the juice from sauteing the tomatoes. The crawfish rest atop a nice helping of red beans and rice.
The rice has its own Cajun-spice powder and a smoky quality distinct from the smoky spiciness of the seafood-and-tomato blend, which has a smattering of smoked tasso – just enough to season.
The menu’s blackened striped bass ($19.95) is only moderately “blackened” in Cajun spice to avoid overcooking; it’s less bold than the jambalaya, even with its drizzle of garlic mayonnaise. A side of red beans and rice marries well with the grilled-fish and Cajun flavors.